CAMILLE - the new Sew Curvy Edwardian Corset Pattern

This is a period correct early Edwardian corset pattern created by Sew Curvy for intermediate stichers.  Edwardian patterns are traditionally mid bust and flat fronted to suit the fashionable silhouette of the time.

As you can see from the picture, the late Victorian/early Edwardian silhouette had changed from an upright position to a very 'pigeon breated' position although modern research has shown that this stance was much exaggerated for advertising - Although the flat front of the Edwardian did press the tummy inwards, the more exaggerated 's-bend' look was acheived with padding at the bust and the bum!

This corset therefore does not fit like a victorian corset in that its purpose was not to support the bust but infact to create the appearance with padding, of a 'monoboob'.

This corset when made therefore, will suit costume wearers looking for an authentic Edwardian corset to complement Edwardian costume, or for more modern wear over a top. Although there is no room for padding built in at the hip, this can easily be added in the fitting process if you wish to put pading under the corset.

Suspender elastics and straps can be added at any point over the bottom edge of the corset - traditionally there would be two at the front, and two over the low hip, but for the sake of variety and smoothness of line, I have removed the traditional ‘tabs’ which would usually be at the bottom edge of a corset from this period.

Modern Contoured Edwardian Corset by Morua Designs

MODERN EDWARDIAN CORSETRY

This style of the historical Edwardian corset is not suitable for wear on it’s own in a modern context - unless you enjoy being an exhibitionist!  However, some modern makers, in particular Gerry Quinton of Morua Designs have modernised the Edwardian design with it's elegant swooping lines, by contouring and raising the bust area - this can be done with any Edwardian pattern with enough patience!  I encourage you to make many toiles and do much experimenting.  Try it! What's the worst that can happen?

The instructions given in the Camille corset pattern here are for as genuine a construction as possible - it is not an easy method so best not for beginners. 

There is an easier way, though no historically accurate.  If you do not lap the seams, you can add either a lining (on the inside) or a 'shell' (on the outside) to hide raw edged seam allowances.  Play around with this concept and it's variables - there are many and each will make a different effect.  ( I will elaborate on this in time!).

 

 

Izabela with added room for padding

SHAPE MATTERS

Another way you can play around with this corset pattern is to add room in the hips.  This will make a curvier shape and can be done as extreme or not as extreme as you like!

You can play around with boning too.  Traditionally, Edwardian corsets were entirely boned with flat steels, however, with this pattern you can use flats throughout, or half and half flat/spiral.  The former will give you a smoother line, the latter will give more curve - experiment.

You can add room at the hip for padding - add lots if you intend to use padding.

Adding a small amount of room at the hip will give a curvier shape without padding.  In the picture shown, Izabela added a small amount of shaping over the hip from the waist down, over panels 6 and 7, and an uber curve was born!

 

Izabella with no padding
Oxford School of Corsetry, first Edwardian class

TRIED AND TESTED

The Camille Corset pattern was formulated when I was teaching through The Oxford School of Corsetry.  I had lots of students who wanted to learn more things and so this was for them really - there they are in the pic.  I did many more Edwardian classes after this one and was always amazed when returning students would note the difference in feel between this pattern, and the Victoria corset.  

The difference in fit in modern terms, is really that the Edwardian pushes the tummy in, and because of the way it is boned, with flat steels throughout, it feels sturdier, and some reported, more comfortable, even though the construction is much lighter.

Corsetry is forever an enigma!

The Camille has got modern shaping through the rib but shape wise is still historically accurate for costuming.

 

FULL PHOTO TUTORIAL COMING SOON

I'm in the process of photographing the making of this pattern from beginning to end but demand was so high for the pattern that I released it first!

Please bear with me as we get through summer commission and a long needed break in September.

In the meantime, you can download the more detailed text instructions that wouldn't fit on the pattern,  here:  (text only).