Here's a corset I made recently when testing out a few components on site, not least the recently released Victoria mid bust corset pattern. I've adapted the pattern slightly by changing the shape of the top line slightly, and adding some suspenders. I re-drew the bottom line of the corset so that at each point where I wanted a suspender, the line flowed nicely into the elastic ends. That's all I did, so it was pretty easy peasy.
It's a single layer corset - the boning channels are made from scraps of the same coutil (offcuts from cutting out the pattern!). These are cut into 2.5cm strips and then run through the Prym bias binding maker to make boning channels. I cut the coutil on the straight grain as this is best for scrap use and for stronger boning channels, however if you had a particularly deep curve over the hip (using another pattern perhaps) then you may want to use a bias grain for your self made bone channels.
With regard to sizing of the Sew Curvy patterns, go with the waist size first - it is easier to adjust the top (bust) and bottom (hip) than it is to use the correct size for those and then adjust the waist - so this is opposite to what a normal dressmaking pattern will tell you.
The components I used for this project are all listed with links here:
Victoria corset pattern - this is a mid bust pattern with very simple single layer construction instructions and includes a bit about how to alter the corset into a full overbust.
Its been a busy start to 2016 after a very busy end to 2015! For many years we've been trying to source the popular rosebud coutil that many makers favour for making historical corsetry or sleek underwear. Late in the year we found the mill !
The rosebud coutil comes in five colours currently.
This coutil can be used on its own to make a very sturdy single layer corset good for underwear and suitable for everything from bridal to boudior! I like to use it to make co-ordinating bone channels too.
They look amazing with the ivory and gold rosebud coutil. Our gold eyelets now come in two sizes and four formats.
4mm in kits or loose 5mm in kits or loose
The new black spot broche with red spots is to die for!
It's much stiffer than the other spot broche coutils because it comes from a different mill. In the spring time we have asked the factory to ensure they put some of the new colourway aside for us. Black with purple spots!
This is also good for single layer corsetry or you can use it with a lining for an extra smooth and luxurious finish.
The pretty rosebud coutils are available by the metre or half metre or as part of our new 'Super Duper Corset Kit'. This kit is a superb starting point for beginners to corsetry and includes all the tools and materials you will need to make a Sophia Underbust Corset.
Use our new Prym bias binding makers with coutil to make matching bone channels for your corsets!! These Prym bias makers have a wider nose which means you can work with thicker fabrics. Our Sew Easy bias binding makers are better for delicate fabrics such as silk.
Dont forget to check the Sew Curvy Facebook page. It's packed with tricks, tips, tutorials and conversations and I often put special offers and news there first!
I'm often asked what the best - and worst - sewing machines for corsetry are so i'll tell you my thoughts garnered from my own experience and that of the students who come to my classes with their own sewing machines.
This lovely vintage Bernina 720 made an appearance in the Sew Curvy Cottage last month. It may be old but it sewed like a dream, stitch perfect every time and better than many other machines.
Bad news first. The worst machines for corsetry are, in the beginners category, domestic Brother machines. I myself started with a Brother as these are often the most easily available, from shops such as Argos and other department stores, with the highest profile aimed at the craft hobby market. People are familiar with the Brother name and therefore trust the brand. Fine unless you want to sew corsets. Unfortunately, the only problems I ever have in class with machines that cant cope, are with Brother machines - they can't keep pace, they labour over every stich as soon as more than 2 layers are put before it, and since those layers are mainly thick coutil, a Brother machine is prone to going on strike just when you don't need it to. I have also encountered many tension problems with Brother machines, not just from their owners! In short, Brother 'entry level' sewing machines are fine for sewing light dresses and the odd piece of home furnishing, but as soon as you progress to more complicated things, they just cannot cut the mustard, which is surprising given that the best industrial machines are also made by Brother - I don't understand why the technology doesn't cross over.
So when I started to make corsets, it was time for an upgrade. I did a lot of research, found a machine I thought suitable and then asked a sewing machine company what they would recommend having briefed them on my requirements and budget. They came up with the same machine I had thought appropriate, and a match made in sewing heaven was born. At that time, I spent around £250 on the mid range Janome 5124 machine and it's still going strong in my studio now - it has everything required for mid range sewing - it can cope with several layers of coutil and bone channelling, has several decorative stitches and several zig zag stitches including a three step zig zag which is useful for sewing elasticated items such as lingerie.
The Singer 201K is renowned to be the best sewing machine ever invented. This one dates from the early 1950's and cost me £16!
Later on I tried other corsetry techniques and other sewing machines. I got myself an industrial Brother machine which was excellent but too big and noisy for my house so it had to go. Cue the Vintage Singer 201K which my local sewing machine man recommended in leui of the Industrial. These machines are fantastic for corsetry and tailoring - they are beautiful, fast and economical and the closest you'll get to industrial quality on a budget. Unfortunately the trend for 'vintage' has pushed the prices of these old machines into the stratosphere - where they used to be shipped out to Africa by the skip load because nobody wanted them, these beautiful machines are now highly prized items earning ££££'s for the loft raiders of ebay. Honestly, don't beleive the hype, vintage Singers are not 'rare antiques'. The Singer factory in Scotland turned them out by the hundreds of millions in their heyday from the 20's right up to the 1960's. If you do fancy getting one, make sure you stick with the black cast iron models which are pre 1960. The brown 201K machines are not nearly as good.
Nowadays I have my wonderful wonderful semi industrial Janome 1600PQC which is a domestic/industrial hibrid. It's pricey, but it's fast and professional whilst still being portable. It has a knee lift which saves a mountain of time, and an auto thread cutter which saves many threads. It also has a high shank which means that industrial sewing machine feet can be used with it as well as the extensive range of sewing machine feet and attachments supplied by Janome. The machine actually comes with a straight stitch foot, a fantastic wide (industrial style) seam guide, screwdrivers, oil, spare needles and bobbins plus a huge extension table and knee lift lever.
When I first started teaching and didn't have a set of brand new Janome machines at my disposal, my students use all of these machines - the vintage Singers, the mid-level Janome and the new Janome 1600PQC. All of them are easy to use and perfect for sewing perfect stitches in perfectly straight lines through many thick layers of fabric. The Singers and the PQC will also both sew through layers of leather with ease.
The Janome1600PQC sews through leather and layers with ease.
Over the past years i've noticed from my students that amongst the more experienced sewers, the most popular machines are Janome, Pfaff, and Bernina - these are all good quality brands and sometimes turn up in their vintage forms which are every bit as good - if not better - than their modern counterparts. Janome machines are literally 'bomb proof' - heavy, sturdy and the preferred machine for schools due to their quality and lower price range. If they can cope with year on year of teenagers thumping through them, then they can cope with corsets! However, if you're serious about corsetry, want to go pro or semi-pro but don't have the space for an industrial machine, then I can't recommend the 1600PQC highly enough although as it's a straight stitch only, you will need a domestic back up if you like fancy stitches or need a zig zag... But then what better excuse to start a new sewing machine collection? I myself have around 10 machines and I love them all :D.
In summary, a good machine for sewing corsets will be sturdy and reasonably heavy, preferably made of metal, and will not be in the 'beginners' class of machine. Generally you can band sewing machines by price. Low range are priced up to about £250-300 depending on brand, mid-range from £300 to about £600 and then top range can go as far as up to £3000 for the most up to date, all singing and dancing computerised machines. Anything below mid range will be generally unsuitable for corsetry.
Sewing Machines Direct. Where I've purchased two of my Janome machines and I cannot recommend them highly enough.
Janome UK - home of the Janome Sewing machines which I also recommend - here you can find information on which one might be best for you
For good corsetry, you need two part metal eyelets with a wide'ish collar - not too wide so as to look clumpy and bulky, and not so narrow that the fabric soon works its way from under the rim and the eyelet falls out, ruining the corset. Also the shank of the eyelet must be not too long so the eyelet is loose when set, and not too short so that the eyelet cuts the fabric when set. It's a fine balance !
You need two part eyelets because the washer part of the eyelet, sandwiches and encloses the fabric safely and ensures a smooth finish to the inside of the corset. One part eyelets which do not come with a washer, are not strong enough for corsetry. One part eyelets are commonly used for leather work - in belts or as a decorative feature, or in paper craft. They are made of softer metal and when hammered, the back of the eyelet shaft collapses and can become jagged. This will not only feel scratchy against the wearer and possibly cause injury or damage to other clothing, but it will certainly decrease the life of the corset substantially by causing wear to the fabric of the corset around the eyelet.
My favourite eyelets for corsetry are 5mm wide however, not all eyelets are created equal! You need different dies to set different eyelets. Dies are the little tools which help to set the eyelets properly either by pliers or by hammer. Prym make it easy by providing an all inclusive eyelet kit which includes a set of dies that fit the separate Prym pliers which in turn do a marvellous job of not only punching a small hole for the eyelet, but setting them too, with hardly any effort. However, these pliers only work with Prym eyelets and the same is true of all other eyelets - they only work with the die's that are made for them. Annoying, but true. Therefore, in order to make a good job of setting your eyelets, you do need the correct set of dies.