Category: Corset Boning

1. From the Archives : How to sew boning channels into your corset

   Posted on 12:00pm Saturday 18th Mar 2023

   How to Sew Perfectly Straight Boning Channels into your Corset One of the more challenging aspects of corsetry is sewing straight boning channels with boning tape on the reverse of the corset without being able to see the front.  Unfortunately, the best things in life take time.  Fortunately, there are ways to make difficult things, easier!
   	Here is a tutorial about how to sew couture boning channels into your corset with perfect results every time.  This is a method used by many professionals for their bespoke work.
   	You will need (see notes below for further info): Boning tape Hand sewing needle Thread for basting Dressmakers chalk Pins Measuring guage
   	Mark where you want your boning channels to be on your cut fabric.   Iron your boning tape then center it over the marked line on your pattern, or over the seam it will be sewn over.   Pin perpendicular to the edges of the tape as shown.
   	Baste your tape as close to the edge as possible on both sides of the tape and as straght as you possibly can.  You could sew through the middle but this may not give such accurate results. You want to be able to sew with your machine just inside the basting lines.  This should give you ample space for your bone.  The boning channel must be 2mm wider than your bone.  So if your bone is 7mm, then your channel must be 9mm wide.
   	You must sew very straight lines because your channels will be sewn from the RIGHT SIDE of the corset and these basting lines are guide lines for your sewing machine.
   	Now for the tricky bit.  Stitch from the right side of the corset, close your basting stitches as you will get a smoother and neater finish if you top stitch from the right side. You can use a normal sewing foot, or a zipper foot if it makes it easier for you to see your stitching lines as you stitch the boning channel on the corset.  Alternatively, some sewing machines come with a clear 'applique foot' which you can also use for sewing straight bone channels.
   	Remove the basting stitches after machining and you will be left with a perfect bone channel. Further useful links on what to buy:
   Boning tape - At Sew Curvy we have plain herringbone twill tape, or tubular boning tape.  Either can be used. Hand sewing needle - The sharper the better - coutil has a habit of blunting needles very quickly.  You cant go wrong with John James needles which is why they are the only needles I stock and recommend. Thread for basting - Silk thread if you are sewing fine fabrics and dont want to mark them.  Otherwise regular basting thread will do the job. Dressmakers chalk - to mark boning channel guide lines on the reverse of your corset.  Magic chalk is good for this because it completely disappears as soon as you iron it!  Pins - I use glass head pins as they dont hurt my fingers and are very sharp Measuring guage - I use the Prym guage for all the things!

2. From the Archives : A little table to help you with flat steel corset boning

   Posted on 12:00pm Wednesday 15th Mar 2023

   Here is a little table which will help you determine which flat metal boning is most suitable to use in your  corsetry and dress making project.
   

   This type of corset boning is known by many names including spring steel, flat steel, flat boning, flat sprung steel, and simply flats. 

   4.5mm	Delicate yet strong flat steel corset boning for where a lot of boning without a lot of weight is required, ie: in fully boned corsets where there is a bone at every point along the waistline.  This size corset boning, with the exception of the plastic coating, is very much like the boning I have seen in antique Victorian corsetry.  Also suitable for stays.
   6mm	Narrow but heavy guage steel where 'delicate' yet very strong support is required.  Aesthetically, this would combine very well with 4.5mm flat boning in a fully boned corset.   Most suitable for boning your corset at places where little flex is required, ie: back panels.  This boning is very suitable for centre back panels too, despite it's narrow width.
   8mm	Standard guage and suitable for corsetry and dress making,  this steel is very easy to use and easy to cut.  Suitable for all applications in corsetry, costume and modern day dress making can be used in corsets, bodices, petticoats, bustles, paniers and crinolines.
   11mm	Nice width of steel can be used in side seams as per certain Victorian corsetry examples i've seen where more support is required in that area, or back panels.  Good for 'plus size' corsetry and centre back panels.  As above, this steel is also used for making cage petticoats, paniers and related steam punk outifits and costumes.
   13mm	Wide very flexible steel for costume making, particularly corsets, bodices, petticoats, bustles, paniers and crinolines.

    

3. What is Corset Boning anyway?

   Posted on 5:27pm Tuesday 12th Mar 2019

   With the rise in popularity of home dressmaking and couture style DIY fashion as well as the popularity of programmes like The Great British Sewing Bee (#GBSB) and the sell out success of the recent incredible Dior Retrospectives in both Paris and London, there is a lot of renewed interest in shape, cinched waists and making Dior shaped dresses and clothes.  Hand in hand with this, there has also been much talk of proper metal corset boning and how 'difficult' it is to use.

   

   What is corset boning used for?

   Spiral steel boning is used in corsets and in couture garments for strong and enduring boning support.  It is made of steel which has been formed into a continuous spring which has then been flattened. 

   

   Because spiral wire boning is a flattened spring, it is extremely flexible and can bend horizontally and vertically (backwards, forwards and sideways), making it perfect for boning over and around curves.

   

   In couture garments - ie: within a dress foundation, it is used in conjunction with 2 layers of tulle or bobbinet which is a very fine and very strong netting material which when layered together, has no stretch but provides a fine, non bulky foundation inside a gown.

   

   In corsetry, sprial wire boning is most commonly used in conjunction with coutil fabric and often in partnership with flat sprung steel bones which are not as flexible and therefore useful when a firmer, straighter support is required. Both types of steel boning were invented during the Victorian age and used instead of whalebone.

   

   Spiral steel boning, sometimes known as spiral wire,  comes in various different widths, from 4mm-15mm, and various different thicknesses making it possible to 'mix and match' your boning to achieve whichever level of support is required for any particular project. For instance, you may only need a light 5mm wire to bone a net bodice, but you may need a more robust 7-10mm wire to bone a multi-layer corset for tightlacing. With all boning, there is flexibility!

   Flat steel boning, sometimes known as spring steel, also comes in various different widths and thicknesses from 2mm-20mm and is used for a huge range of applications including dressmaking, costume making, corsetry and for making hoop petticoats.  In corsetry it can be used all over the corset, but is always used in the centre back panels either side of the eyelets.  This is becuase the back of the corset absolutely must be straight and strong.

   

   All types of boning, whether steel or plastic, comes either in pre-cut lengths or in continuous reels. It isn't any more economical to buy your steel in a roll and cut it yourself so you have a vast choice - corset makers who make 'standard size RTW corsets' know which lengths of bones they need and will order each length in bulk.  Corsetieres who favour a more bespoke approach will order in rolls and cut to length as required for each project. Sometimes you cant get pre-cut steel that's long enough, for instance in a corset dress which will go over the knee or below the hip. Many are  put off by the supposed requirement for 'brute force' with which to cut it.

   How to cut metal corset boning

   Flat steel can be cut with tin snips - there's a knack though, or plain old bolt cutters which will treat flat steel of any thickness like butter.  You can cut spiral steel with bolt cutters too if you have them. 

   However, if you don't have bolt cutters, spiral wire boning is easy peasy to cut and tip and there is a tutorial on how to do this right HERE.

   

4. Boning tapes - what to use, where, why and how

   Posted on 12:00pm Thursday 17th May 2018

   As one of the most important 'ingredients' of a corset, boning tape is one of my main fixations in life when it comes to sourcing the good stuff for my own work and consequently, for you, my lovely customers - I've said it before and I'm saying it again, I only sell stuff that I use myself.  It's tried, tested and given my seal of approval for learners and pro's alike.

   So, boning tape.  What's on the shelves here?  Lets take a look and talk about each type and their pro's and cons.  If you want the quick version, just take a look at the video here.

    

   Herringbone Twill Tape

   This is the cheapest type of boning tape that I sell, and it comes in three colours and three widths.  It took me ages and ages to source this stuff, and I have only ever known one British wholesaler who sells it how I like it - all others are inferior versions or they are not cotton.  So what I have here, is pure 100% cotton twill tape which is densly woven, strong, durable and not bulky.  The twill tape at Sew Curvy is acutally made for upholstery projects, not corsetry, and that is what makes it strong and durable.  If it's good enough to support your armchair, it's good enough for your corset... but don't be fooled.  This twill tape is not bulky or clumsy in any way.

   Herringbone twill tape for corsetry - can be used as lovely strong boning channels or for busk facings and waist tapes.

   Pros:

   • 100% cotton twill tape, easy to sew, strong, durable and smooth.
   • Cheap

   When to use it and what to use it for:

   • 10mm - for fine boning 4mm-6mm widths of both spiral and flat
   • 15mm - for regular 7-12mm widths of both spiral and flat boning
   • 25mm - for double or triple boning channels depending on the width of your boning - this is especially popular for double boning channels in Edwardian corsetry.

   Cotton herringbone twill tape is good for all sorts of corsetry, but particularly for Edwardian corsets where the boning channels run vertically up and down the corset, and not along the seams as in Victorian corsetry.

   This twill tape can be used in single layer corsetry, but I and others prefer to use this when the finished corset will be lined.  It's a good tape but it's still a 'budget' option.

   All widths can also be used as a strong waist stay although not my preferred choice for that.

   Cons: 

   • Not the prettiest tape, and can fray at the edges if cut too soon before binding. 
   • Not good for uber curves as there is no stretch or tolerance in this tape.
   • Not comparable to the tapes you'll find in antique corsetry.* 

   *Lets not forget that the corset industry in Victorian times was big business.  There were coutil mills all over England and Europe, there were lots of different steel factories all over the place because busks and (later) steel bones were in huge demand.  There were special machines, special materials and special processes that were created for corsetry,  that we don't have these days because there isn't the demand there was back in the day.  Nowadays we have different materials, processes and machines - they are different but not inferior and that's what we have to work with now.  It's no big deal.  Times change.  We still have twill tape suitable for boning, it's not the same as Victorian boning tape, neither is steel, neither is coutil -  there are literally only one or two original steel factories and coutil mills left in the world none of which are in England whatever you may hear.  Trust me.  I've looked for them, and they don't exist.

   Tubular Boning Tape

   This is a cotton viscose blend tape which is basically a flat tube in which you put your boning.  It has 'tracks' on both edges which makes it easy to see where to sew.

   This tape comes in two colours and one width (it is available in other colours and widths but as yet, not at Sew Curvy).  

   This is a very fine boning tape which is also very strong.  It's much smoother and prettier than the herringbone twill tape, and it's also alot more expensive.

   tubular boning tape, smooth, strong, luxurious

   Pros:

   • Strong weave cotton/viscose blend which fully encloses the corset bone once stitched into place
   • Adds another layer of 'protection' between the bone and the outer layer of the corset
   • Is smooth and professional looking - can therefore be used without a lining.
   • Has a small tolerance for curves due to the special weave.

   When to use it and what to use it for:

   • For wedding and pale corsets where the grey steel of boning can show through - this tubular tape adds a nice dense layer between the bone and the coutil so there is no show through.
   • In corsetry where a smooth professional finsih in unlined (single layer) corsets is required.

   Cons: 

   • It's expensive and not always necessary if you're making a corset where the innards will be covered up. 
   • Whilst it's better quality than the herringbone twill tape, it doesn't do a better job than twill tape, it does a different job.

   Self made coutil boning channels

   Coutil boning channels are the best for strength and durability and, they can make very pretty boning channels and reduce waste - they are a fantastic way of using up your odd bits of coutil ensuring very very little waste and therefore economising in the process.  They can be made in several ways for different applications.

   First, and most obvious is the plain 'bias' strip.  I say 'bias' in inverted commas because I rarely actually cut the boning channel on the bias.  I cut it on the straight grain, and put it through a bias folder.  Several reasons - the straight grain is stronger, non stretch and less prone to 'wrinkling' through stretch.  Only on the most uber curvy bits (ie over a large bust or big hip spring) would I use this tape on the bias.  To make a good size channel for 7mm boning, you need the 12mm bias maker, cut strips 2.5cm wide, and iron them through.

   Coutil boning channels made with a bias maker look so lovely and are a very economical option as well as strong and durable.  Use up your scraps!

   The second way to make your own coutil binding is with pressing bars - and there are two ways to do this.  First, you could make a tube - again on the straight grain - press the seam allowances of the tube over the pressing bar, and apply the channel over your seam - this is good for external boning channels or sheer corsetry where you want your bones to be invisible but need strength.

   A corset made by my friend and colleague Izabela of Prior Attire.  She folds her fabric around the pressing bar, centres the resulting strip over her seam, stitches it down in the ditch, then stitches either side.

   Otherwise, you can simply use your pressing bar as a folding device, cut your boning channel to the required width (this is a particularly good way to do double channels), then press the sides over the pressing bar, making a crisp outer edge.  Line up the centre of the tape with your seam, stitch in the ditch, then stitch down each side.  Bingo - perfect double boning channels on your corset, matching, and minimum effort.

   Pressing bars are therefore good when you're using less bulky coutils, or when you're using fused fashion fabric on coutil.

   Pros:

   • Coutil boning channels are strong, durable and colour co-ordinated if you want them to be.
   • Economical - use up your scraps!
   • Easy and satisfying

   Cons:

   • Can be bulky depending upon the type of coutil used and the method
   • Can be fiddly if you don't like making tubes and strips! (practice makes perfect)

   Cutting out a corset and boning strips uses most of your fabric that wouldn't otherwise be used. I call this "fabric economy".

   What NOT to use when boning a corset?

   Well there are several things that I don't think work well for corset boning channels.

   Grosgrain ribbon, polyester ribbon (even double faced) and seam tape - these will work if you have absolutely nothing else and no other option but they do tend to wrinkle in a very ugly way if you're not uber careful.  They are also quite thin and can fray/wear quite easily if you don't secure them well enough at the edges under the binding.  I have tried them for a fancy option and whilst not impossible, they are quite difficult to deal with. Having said that, sometimes a thinner option like this is the only way to make a channel where the 'look' is more important than the purpose, ie: when you need to fold over the edges to acehive a 'floating' effect, as in this sheer corset which has narrow grosgrain ribbon for it's boning channels.

   Corset: Julia Bremble, Sew Curvy Couture.  Image and retouching by Inaglo Photography, not to be used without permission, model is Valis Volkova

   Tailors tape - this can be used for a waist stay because it's fine and non stretch, but although tightly woven, it's a bit too thin to use as a boning tape unless your corset is for light wear only.

    

   Tailors tape - brilliant as a waist stay, not so good for boning channels.

   Fashion fabrics - unless your fashion fabric is very dense, or is interlined with something strong yet light, you will get bad results with fashion fabric on it's own with regular corset boning.  Having said that, if you use very fine boning, it could work OK on light use corsets.

   So there you have it.  There are many opinions about boning tape on the interwebs, some of them quite ill informed because they come from a very narrow viewpoint.  As a shopkeeper, I am lucky because I get to explore all the options and bring the best ones to you, my fellow corset making addicts!

   Links:

   Find all the bone casing we have on our shelves here

   Tools for making bone casing:

   Prym bias binding maker
   Pressing bars
   Coutil

    

    

5. Plastic boning for corsetry and costume - which is best for what?

   Posted on 4:00pm Thursday 23rd Nov 2017

   The range of plastic boning on sale at Sew Curvy.  All of it is suitable for corsets but in different ways and some, only as a supplement to Steel boning.

   I've talked about steel boning in a previous post, so lets now talk about the different types of plastic boning available and the pros and cons of each in relation to corsetry - which is what this site is all about after all.

   Rigilene boning comes in three colours, black, white and transparent, and 2 widths, 12mm and 8mm

   The most common type of plastic boning - and the most widely available - is  known as "Rigilene" which is made from polyester, a type of plastic.  Rigilene has been the boning of choice for many a dressmaker over many a decade.  It can stiffen, shape and hold your garment or parts of your garment and gives very light support.  It is thin and flexible, easy to use, can be moulded with an iron, can be sewn through and sometimes comes ready covered in satin or felt, making application to your garment even easier.  You'll find it in a range of ready made garments including prom dresses, bodices, skirts, jackets, wedding gowns.  In short, it can be used for all manner of sewing or craft applications where light stiffening and light shaping is required.

   From the perspective of corsetry,  Rigilene boning is not a good choice because it is too light to support a proper corset pattern, it will not help modify the body in any way, it will also distort over time giving you unsighltly lumps where you really don't want them!

   

   Having said all that, I do use Rigilene in corsetry and dressmaking for various little jobs where I need a bit of extra 'body' to a certain section of a garment - horiszontally over the bust to make a rounded shape for instance, or at the side bust to help a forward thrust where light help is required.  I also use it in corset modesty panels where only a slight amount of stiffness is required because I can sew through it and it makes one job less fiddly.  I sometimes use it as a supplement to steel boning in certain closed front corsets and bodices but it wont give enough support on it's own.  A novel application I've heard it being used for is to make feeding tents for babies and breastfeeding mums.

   Triple flex plastic boning comes in different weights and widthes but is mostly very flimsy	It is made from thin plastic folded three times - hence 'triple' flex	It is what is inside 'twill covered boning' and in this formation serves a similar purpose to Rigilene boning.

   Tripleflex' plastic boning is a thin clear plastic boning which has been folded three ways.  It comes in various weights and thicknesses and is used for the same things as rigilene although a separate boning channel is required. Unlike rigilene, it is not heat proof and it is not strong;  it unfolds itself if you so much as show it an iron. The best way to use tripleflex plastic boning is when it is fully enclosed in twill tape aka 'twill covered boning".  This is as easy to use as plain rigilene and as it is ready covered, negates the need for a separate boning channel and therefore gives a smoother, neater finish than rigilene.  Tripleflex plastic boning certainly has its uses but you can't shape it and it will perish over time, so it is no good for heirloom garments or proper dress foundations.

   Reinforced plastic boning is thick and pliable but not springy

   Reinforced plastic boning is a thick pliable translucent plastic boning with harder white plastic threads running through it.  These threads are the 'reinforcement' of the title, and they prevent the boning from twisting.  This sort of boning is about 1-1.5mm thick, comes in various widths, and is good for using in place of flat steel boning where lightness is more important than strength.  It has no spring, and althought it could be used in light "corsetry" (ie: for children or young people where you don't want reduction) it is most commonly found in supportive swimwear because it is waterproof and elasticated fabric will do the job of keeping things streamlined and contained!  It will not help mould the body and it is not sprung which means it creates no tension which, in combination with your pattern and your fabric, aids corset shaping.  I don't stock this type of boning at Sew Curvy as I find it doesn't do anything that the other types of plastic boning I stock doesn't do.

   Plastic 'Synthetic Whalebone'  is great for period style corsetry and comes in various widths and thicknesses.  It is extremely hard to photograph!

   Synthetic Whalebone is a semi-rigid, fine translucent plastic boning which comes in a very wide variety of widths and thicknesses.  It is available to retailers from only one manufacturer in Germany and has been specially created to be a good lightweight alternative to flat spring steel boning. 

   According to the manufacturers catalogue this type of boning is "100% plastic, is machine washable and possesses good spring characteristics,  therefore returning to its original shape without any tendency to kink".  Note:  I have seen this type of boning being confused with plastic 'multi bones' from the same manufacturer, which are made from spun polyester and are not the same as synthetic boning as they are described in the catalogue as being "extremely soft".

   Other benefits of synthetic whalebone:  It is very light, smooth, easy to use, and can be moulded to shape with hot water or an iron/steam.  The thicker 6mm version which is 1.5mm thick, is the type which is most like authentic whalebone and most useful in Victorian style corsetry.  It works well in period corsets and historical costumes where a degree of authenticity is required, however, it is plastic and is therefore not an authentic substitute for either whalebone or metal boning which was invented by the Victorians to replace baleen.

   Historical corset boned with Synthetic Whalebone by Izabela Pitcher of Prior Attire

   Where it is useful for a degree of authenticity is it's shaping properties and it's lightness and this is the reason that many historical costumers prefer synthetic boning to metal boning in their corsetry.  It is also true that some people find it more comfortable than steel boning, in the same way that some people find steel boning, much more comfortable than plastic boning.  

   In Victorian clothing, bodices and jackets are often boned - the lighter synthetic boning is good for this.

   Side by side two authentic baleen corset bones (top) and a plastic 'whalebone' at the bottom (white).  The modern version is maybe half a mm wider than the actual whalebone.

   Thickness is also similar.  In the middle is the 6mm x 1.5mm synthetic whalebone, either side are the genuine baleen bones. To handle, the plastic bone is much stiffer, but ofcourse the baleen bones are very old so it could be that they are more flexible due to age and use - in terms of their flex, they are somewhere between the thinner synthetic wb and the thicker.

   Personally I prefer the smoothing properties of steel particularly at the front of the corset where I like a flat appearance rather than the rounded tummy of authentic Victorian style corsetry, however I do know of modern makers who do prefer SW over steel.  It's really down to personal choice and as ever - experimentation.  SW is around the same cost as steel so it's not an economical choice at all.

   As for the question, "Is plastic boning better than steel boning?" (or vice versa), the short answer is No.  Plastic boning is different to steel boning, it's not better and it's not worse.  It can perform the same function, but remember all plastic isn't created equal, sometimes it can be the best choice for a particular project, sometimes steel would be a better choice - as usual, it's for the maker to decide what to use project by project - we are lucky to have choice and it's exciting because it means we can do more things!

   General note on all types of plastic and polyester boning.  Plastic never decomposes and it's manufacture is not enviromentally friendly.  As discussed elsewhere on this site, most plastic boning will deteriorate with wear over time - it will not disappear and it will not appear to be changed, however it's original properties may be lost or distorted over time - whether that is 10 years or 100 we cannot know yet because plastic hasn't been around long enough. 

   Links:

   Buy plastic boning - our selection of plastic boning at Sew Curvy includes Rigilene in three colours and 2 widths, Synthetic Whalebone in 2 widths and 2 thicknesses, Twill covered tripleflex and satin covered Rigeline.

   Really interesting article found while researching, on polyester fabric, what it is and how it's made.  This site is also good for other stuff such as fabric printing and labels!

   Boning for dress foundations - which to use?

   Steel boning - how to use it

    

    

    

    

    

6. Couture dress foundations - which boning to use?

   Posted on 10:16am Monday 13th Nov 2017

   I said this in 2014, and I'll say it again - read more to understand the context of why I said it and why I stand by the statement that plastic boning corrupts over time and simply does not stand up to the job. photo copyright : Julia Bremble, please do not use without permission

   I've talked about steel boning at length all over this website, and will soon write a blog post on plastic boning for your interest and information.  As ever, I present no pre-conceived conclusions and encourage experimentation at every step of your sewing journeys which is why it's no secret that I do not agree with the statement "plastic boning is better than steel". It isn't better and it isn't worse, it's different.  I stock various types of plastic boning and lots of different types of steel boning because each type is useful and apart from anything else, it isn't in my interests to persuade you one way or another.  In my quest to be a good shopkeeper and educator,  I personally test everything on my shelves and I do extensive research not only because I want to pass the information on so that customers can make an informed choice, but because this is my passion too. My overriding aim is and always has been that YOU choose what is best for your practice, and you make your choices after research, experimentation, experience.  It's your call, I can only give you information, inspiration and my own opinion based upon what I have found to work best for me.  

   Dior dress foundation photographed by veteran corset maker Alison Campbell of Crikey Aphrodite who was commissioned by a collector of vintage couture to examine and reproduce an authentic Dior style dress foundation. It was during this project that we sourced cotton bobbinet for Sew Curvy which exactly matched the material in this original Dior garment.  Photo copyright: Alison Campbell - please do not use without permission

   So lets talk about dress foundations.  

   When I wrote this article,  dated March 2014 it was a long time before the current popularity of the plastic material known as 'synthetic whalebone' and I was referring to the more commonly available Rigilene, the plastic boning of choice for many a dressmaker over many a decade, a product which at that time sold in much more quantity than synthetic whalebone (or 'whale' as we call it at Sew Curvy HQ).  It still sells by the heap and because not all of my customers are corset makers, attracts queries on an almost daily basis, the most common of which is 'what's best for boning this wedding/prom dress i'm making, rigeline or spiral steel?.  I always reply that, in my opinion, steel is best but sometimes I will recommend the synthetic whalebone as a suitable alternative to steel - it depends on the purpose and desired outcome.  

   an order for sample boning received yesterday - someone's experimenting!

   Rigilene has its uses but is no good for serious dress foundations because it wont stand up to the job.  Lets look at why that is and why infact,  steel boning is the boning of choice for couturiers.

   Here is a Dior dress foundation photographed by me during the V&A Ballgowns exhibition a few years ago.

   Foundation of a gown from the V&A Ballgowns Exhibition a number of years ago -  you can clearly see that it is lightly boned with narrow spiral steel because the grey of the steel is showing through the pale foundation fabric which is made from a few layers of tightly woven cotton bobbinet.

   Here is another example of a dress foundation boned with spiral steel, and I am particularly interested in this one because it has toile panniers which I have been fascinated about ever since hearing about them from my showgirl friend and vintage couture conniseur, Immodesty Blaize who found them in the vintage wedding dress she wore to her civil wedding ceremony  in France.  This dress foundation also uses steel boning, again clearly visible by the grey colour under the net bodice, and there is a very good reason for this. 

   This dress foundation has multi layered tulle petticoats and toile panniers to support and give structure to the heavy satin dress which will go over the top of it.	source

   As you can see from this particular example, this dress foundation is doing alot of work - As a whole it is transforming the body by smoothing the torso with the corsolette and creating the illusion of larger hips with the petticoats and panniers.  The bodice is not only smoothing the wearers body, it is also supporting those petticoats and panniers and the whole thing will then support the heavy satin dress that goes over the top of it.  Dress foundations therefore serve two purposes. 

   1. They smooth and shape the torso ensuring a smooth foundation for the wearer.
   2. They support the garment itself, improving shape, structure and comfort.  The garment, as well as the body of the wearer is supported. 

   Boning is used because without it, the foundation would collapse and would not support the weight of either the petticoats or the over garment.  Steel boning is usually used but in some cases, sturdy plastic boning such as synthetic whalebone could  also be used.  Rigline boning cannot stand up to the job because it is far too thin and flexible.

   The boning of choice for couture houses from the golden age, right up to the present day (and I supply many of them with steel boning, never plastic), is steel.  Why?  Steel boning is more widely available than decent plastic boning and it is much more flexible for curvy areas such as over the bust.  Also, steel does not degrade in the same way that plastic does over time, and what I mean by this is that spiral steel retains it's original properties for a very long time, plastic does not.  So although we all know that once plastic is made, it can never be 'unmade', the properties which made it useful when new, will degrade over a relatively short period of time.  Therefore, apart from the other environmental considerations, plastic boning will not produce an heirloom garment. 

   This dior foundation is light and 'fluffy' and boned with 5mm spiral steel. You could probably use synthetic whalebone 6 x 1.5mm but would it last 100 years on a body? â’¸ Alison Campbell

   What about the argument that plastic is lighter, and that metal can rust?  Both of those statements are of course true, however, in a couture foundation, 5mm spiral steel boning is commonly used in combination with fine cotton bobbinet which is strong yet very light.  In other words, a dress foundation, although it performs light corsetting duties, is not heavy but it does need to be strong and durable.  The steel will never rust if the garment is looked after properly and also because it is galvanised to protect against rusting and because of it's structure (two flattened springs squashed together) it's properties will not change over time.  It is possible to use plastic whalebone for the same purpose and with the same effect but the integrity of the material over time is not so guaranteed and of course where steel could rust if not looked after, plastic can warp if not looked after.  The pros and cons are almost equal so again, we come back to choice when it comes to your own work.

   no boning caps - don't faint! â’¸ Alison Campbell

   Having personally examined a number of couture dress foundations, and having had clients with collections of vintage couture, and friends who have not only studied fashion but have also studied couture garments for particular reasons and having customers from famous couture houses and production companies who order steel boning by the roll,  I can quite categorically state without a shadow of a doubt, that spiral steel boning is more common in couture dress foundations than plastic boning because more often than not, it is the best thing for that particular job.  

   So I am standing by my statement with the following caveat perfectly captured by Robert Dyer in his seminal book "Wasited Efforts' which includes a whole chapter on couture dress foundations that he has studied from the House of Dior who routinely use 5mm spiral steel boning and cotton bobbinet:

   "Interestingly, as scholars research and analyze the techniques of master coutiriers, it is often forgotten that the couturier is a master because they abide by no rules but are so confident with the art of sewing and cutting, that decisions are made depending on need not formula.  Sewing after all is simply a series of seams, some straight, some curved.  The crucial part is that the stitcher must become profient at doing them"

   And so it is with this exquisite dress by Yves St Laurant for Dior which was created in 1958.

   source

   The materials listed are silk, metallic thread, glass and plastic.  We can assume that this 'plastic' refers either to the bead and sequin embellishment or the boning used for the bodice that supports a very etheareal and airy, sheer dress which is supposed to look like it is swinging off the body.

   "Creating the trapeze silhouette for Dior, Saint Laurent has a rigid understructure veiled under a fly-away cage. A boned corset anchors the dress but allows the delusion of a free swinging cone"  

   Without examining the finer details of this garment in person, we can only imagine that if the creator preferred to use plastic boning here, he did so because it was important for the final effect;  I would say that in order to preserve the light qualities of the garment, boning channels designed to hide grey metal boning would have been deemed to 'heavy' whereas plastic boning, being white, would give a more effortlessly etheareal result. 

   "Thus, in both surface decoration and in structure, Saint Laurent gained the effect of ethereal, bouyant freedom while retaining the structure of the couture. From the earliest works at the house of Dior through the designer's accomplishments in his own house, Saint Laurent has practiced and perfected this modernist wielding of couture construction and proficiency to seem wholly unfettered"

   So here we have a shining example of where, contrary to traditional streams of thought,  the designer may have felt that plastic boning was best for this garment and used it instead of metal boning.  The effect is sublime and as ever proves the point that we should use the things that work best for us and for the project in hand.

   In summary

   • Not all plastic boning is created equal 
   • Rigilene boning is too thin and flimsy to support a functional dress foundation and it will not stand up to the job
   • It's a scientifically proven fact that plastic will degrade over time, faster than steel.
   • Some sturdier types of plastic boning can take the place of steel in a dress foundation and do the same job with the same effect.
   • The best type of plastic boning for dress foundations at the current time, is 1mm-1.5mm thick synthetic whalebone.  The thinner types also will not stand up to the job.
   • Metal boning is undisputedly the go-to choice for couture houses to use in their dress foundations.

   As ever, context is important.  Where plastic can be used, use it if you want to.  Where metal is more suitable, use it if you want to.  

   There are no rules.

   The next article will be all about the pros and cons of plastic boning.

   Links for further info:

   A whole page of 'pins' concerning dress foundations old and new

   A Threads article where Susan Kalje uses steel boning as support in garments in surprising ways (probably some of which I would use plastic boning for)

   A blog post where a home sewer makes her own wedding dress with a really good technique on how to make really lovely sheer bone casings

   Anatomy of a modern gown with a bobbinet dress foundation by Morua Corsetry and Couture

   A few blog posts on How to make a dress foundation in several projects by me - including a post where I use rigilene boning in partnership with steel boning to make a moulded bust curve - a technique which I still use in some of my corsetry projects today.  This link also includes more details on the John Cavanah dress which is pictured at the top of this blog post and dates back to a road trip to the Symington archive that I made with friends around 5 years ago.

7. Which boning should I use for corset making?

   Posted on 5:49pm Wednesday 5th Mar 2014

   Metal corsetry boning was invented in the 1800's by the Victorians when their preferred corset boning of choice, whalebone, was becoming scarce and expensive.  The Victorians came up with two types of boning - both with ingenious features for very specific applications in corsetry and both of which are still in use today with no modern adaptation or equal.

   First of all there is flat steel boning, sometimes known as 'corset flats' or  'spring steel'.  There is a reason for this.  Flat steel boning isn't made of any old metal - No.  It is made from sprung steel which means that it is naturally very 'bouncy' and it is very very hard to bend.  Try bending sprung steel and it will bounce right back into flatness.  Why is this best for curvy corsetry?  Because the way a corset works is by creating pressure and tension over the body to create the special hourglass shape that the Victorians and Edwardians favoured.  If you didn't have sprung steel as boning, then the metal rods inside the corset would simply bend and buckle and would not hold a thing in place.  Can you imagine how uncomfortable that would be and how awful it would look?  Sprung steel on the other hand, only flexes in a vertical direction and will keep its shape and provide tension in the right places - as your corset pattern dictates - and because of this, you can use flat steel corset boning to help engineer your final outcome.  For example, if you want to control a larger bust, or if you want to enhance a smaller bust, flat steel boning can be used in strategic places at the side of the bust to help acheive the desired effect by holding your assets firmly in place and pushing the flesh in a certain direction, unlike spiral steel boning which is much more flexible and will simply mould over curves.

   I do not ever recommend pre-bending flat corset bones because doing this removes the tension in the steel which negates it's special properties.  If you feel like you want to create very curvy drama or you are boning a corset with a very small waist, then use spiral steel boning instead - it will do the bending for you.

   Flat steel boning is also used in hooped petticoats, steel dress cages and panniers and is also sprung so that it keeps it's nice round shape but it is not so thick as flat steel corset boning.

   The Elliptical cage crinoline was the main support foundation for the later- and post-American Civil War period of 1863-1868. Called a "cage" because of the cage-like appearance created by the hoop wires and vertical support tapes, this type of crinoline offers maximum support capabilities for a perfect shape, combined with flexibility for comfortable wear

    

   Spiral steel boning is very different to flat sprung steel boning.  It is made from 2 springs flattened and then forced together to make one flat looking spring.  

   

   This type of corset boning is also sprung and is ingenious because it flexes in all directions and is therefore particularly good for the more curvy areas of the body, where you need a bit of moulding - over the breast, over the hips, perhaps over a fuller dierriere.  Spiral steel boning is much 'softer' on the body and therefore wearers find it more comfortable.  Where flat boning can be used to control and streamline, spiral boning can be used to enhance and create drama.  Spiral steel is the most versatile type of corset boning, it comes in different widths and different thicknesses for all sorts of boning projects and ofcourse it isn't just used for corsetry, it is used in couture for boning dress foundations properly.

   An antique corset from the famous Symington Collection - this corset is German and dates from 1903.  It is made from grey coutil and has exposed 'watch spring' spiral steels which were removable to aid laundering.

    

   In summary, boning can be used in many ways and many combinations.  Sometimes it can even be used to even out an asymetry in the body.  No body is the same, and it follows that no handmade custom or bespoke corset will be the same as another in terms of how it is boned, however each individual maker will have his or her preferred way of using the bones and this in turn will contribute to the over all look, feel and style of that maker.

    

   The inside of a couture dress foundation from the Fashion Gallery at Snibston Discovery Centre, Leicestershire. (by kind permission).  Dress foundations should be boned with metal boning as plastic boning corrupts over time and simply does not stand up to the job.

    

   I therefore encourage everyone to experiment with boning and have put very precise descriptions in my product listings.  

   Here are some further resources for corset boning:

   How to cut and tip spiral steel boning

   How and why to use spiral steel boning 

   How to make a dress foundation  
   

   Using metal boning in a strapless dress pattern by Vogue